A Travellerspoint blog

The Accidental Tourist

So of course the nicest day of the trip ... has to be the day we leave. So what can you do? Enjoy every last minute, that's what! With an evening flight, there was plenty of time to head down to Old Montreal and the port for a stroll, catch some rays, and have some fine French cuisine at L'Arrivage, located atop the Museum of Archeology.

Highly recommended by Anne, the owner of the B&B, it didn't disappoint - not only was the rooftop patio the perfect spot for a hot sunny day like today, especially with a beautiful view of the port, but the food ... as fine as anything you can get in France and at a very reasonable price. $20 for a three-course meal with coffee or tea? You can't beat that!

Montreal has been tres cool, definitely worthy of a return trip, especially if it would involve actually seeing a complete F1 race. It's actually been quite fun to play tourist in my own country - it's something I've never actually done before, at least not to the extent of the walking-around-wearing-a-backpack-with-a-guidebook-in-hand-and-a-camera-in-the-other type of tourist I was in Montreal. It wasn't really the intent, but more of an accident.

It's a shame, in a way - Canada has so much to offer, but the call of distant lands is inevitably louder. Funny how so many of us see so much of the rest of the world before we really even see our own little piece of it all. But of course, my justification is always that while I'm still able to, I'll backpack to faraway lands by bus and train, saving Canada for when I'm old and grey, and can see it via RV!

Chateau Ramezay

Chateau Ramezay


Notre Dame

Notre Dame


Place Jacques Cartier ...

Place Jacques Cartier ...


City Hall

City Hall


Montreal Museum of Archeology

Montreal Museum of Archeology


View of the Old Port From L'Arrivage's Terrace

View of the Old Port From L'Arrivage's Terrace


Vegetable Remoulade ...

Vegetable Remoulade ...


Beet gazpacho ...

Beet gazpacho ...


Wild Bass and Gargantuan Shrimps ...

Wild Bass and Gargantuan Shrimps ...


Pistachio-Encrusted Pork ...

Pistachio-Encrusted Pork ...


Duo of Desserts ...

Duo of Desserts ...


Montreal's Port ...

Montreal's Port ...


The South American Slash ...

The South American Slash ...


Airport Meal ...

Airport Meal ...


Salad With Lox ...

Salad With Lox ...


The Official Religion of Montreal ...

The Official Religion of Montreal ...


Boo on Montreal's Public Transport ...

Boo on Montreal's Public Transport ...

Posted by vagabondvoyager 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

All You Can Eat

Much has been made the past few years about eating locally, organic food, the Slow Food movement versus the Fast Food Nation - who would've thought we'd find a commentary on these very subjects at ... Montreal's Museum of Fine Arts?!???!! There for a a temporary exhibit on the forbidden city, The Warrior Emperor and China's Terracotta Army - which was super interesting - the highlight of the museum was actually Karine Giboulo's "All You Can Eat".

Not only is it a commentary on the eating habits and over consumption prevalent in North America, it also references the fact that millions of Chinese live and work in massive complexes in order to produce all that we consume. It's definitely one of the most interesting pieces I've seen in a long time at a museum, one with stunning attention to detail. There's way too much to describe with mere words ... best to let the pictures do the talking.

Like I've said before, Montreal has so much to offer - a few great hours at the museum were followed by a stroll down St. Catharine's street, a little cafe time, and a stroll through Mont Royal park. Given that this was the first truly nice day we've had so far, Montreal's favourite green space was the ideal place to spend a few hours on our last full day in Montreal.

Boutique Hotel in the Latin Quarter

Boutique Hotel in the Latin Quarter


La Belle Province ...

La Belle Province ...


Museum of Fine Arts ...

Museum of Fine Arts ...


All You Can Eat ...

All You Can Eat ...


Using Some Miracle Grow

Using Some Miracle Grow


But It's Not Vegetables, They're Growing Pigs

But It's Not Vegetables, They're Growing Pigs


A Bit More Miracle Grow to Fatten the Pigs

A Bit More Miracle Grow to Fatten the Pigs


Manufactured Processed Food ...

Manufactured Processed Food ...


Chinese Workers, Living in Prison-Like Conditions

Chinese Workers, Living in Prison-Like Conditions


Under Constant Supervision by Prison Guards

Under Constant Supervision by Prison Guards


People Growing in the Vegetable Patch

People Growing in the Vegetable Patch


Pigging Out On the Fruits of Their Labour

Pigging Out On the Fruits of Their Labour


Gotta Work it Off ...

Gotta Work it Off ...


Death, Byproduct of the Unhealthy Lifestyle

Death, Byproduct of the Unhealthy Lifestyle


The Man, Swimming in Dirty Money

The Man, Swimming in Dirty Money


Awwwwww ...

Awwwwww ...


Snack at Vasco Da Gama ...

Snack at Vasco Da Gama ...


Mont Royal, Beautiful Park Overlooking the City

Mont Royal, Beautiful Park Overlooking the City


La Mochica, Peruvian Restaurant

La Mochica, Peruvian Restaurant


Pisco w/ Passionfruit ...

Pisco w/ Passionfruit ...


Papa a la Huancaina ...

Papa a la Huancaina ...


Modern Taken on a Shrimp Ceviche ...

Modern Taken on a Shrimp Ceviche ...


Grilled Baby Octopus ...

Grilled Baby Octopus ...


Very Tender Braised Lamb w/ Aji and Coriander ...

Very Tender Braised Lamb w/ Aji and Coriander ...


Warm Purple inca Corn Pudding ...

Warm Purple inca Corn Pudding ...


Peruvian Pottery ... Interesting ...

Peruvian Pottery ... Interesting ...

Posted by vagabondvoyager 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

Poutine Perfection

Montreal is the perfect place to chill out and just laze around - though it's got dozens of museums and countless festivals during the summertime, Montreal seems to be best enjoyed strolling around and browsing, then stopping for a coffee, drink, or bite to eat. There seem to be countless streets that are packed with bakeries, bars, boutiques, cafes, patios, restaurants ... so many distractions as you walk along, it seems nearly impossible to take more than a few steps before finding a reason to stop, whether it's the sight of pastries in a window or the smell of an espresso that arouses the senses and beckons ...

Monteal is such a walkable city with activity and life in the streets you don't typically see in many Canadian cities. It's got so many character-filled neighbourhoods that blend together seamlessly - from Little Italy to Outremont to Mile End to Mont Royal to the Latin Quarter ... it's tough to know when to stop walking as there is no real end to the fun. Even the main streets like St. Denis and St. Laurent seem to go on and on ... not that it's a bad thing!

For me, Montreal's funky neighbourhoods and cafe culture are the best sight of all - though there was nothing of significance on our itinerary today, we somehow managed to stroll from noon until 8 PM, easily covering over 10 km. Starting out at Marche Jean Talon, we eventually made our way back to our B&B in the Latin Quarter. We didn't seem to do a whole a lot, but it probably ended up being our best day so far, no small statement to make since we were here during Grand Prix weekend!

Sunflowers at Marche Jean Talon

Sunflowers at Marche Jean Talon


Eglise St. Edouard

Eglise St. Edouard


Cute and Cozy Little Italy

Cute and Cozy Little Italy


Marche Jean Talon

Marche Jean Talon


Chocolates w/ Little Capsules of Booze, Brilliant!

Chocolates w/ Little Capsules of Booze, Brilliant!


Horse Meat is Popular in Quebec, and On Sale Too!

Horse Meat is Popular in Quebec, and On Sale Too!


Little Cones of Maple Syrup ...

Little Cones of Maple Syrup ...


Creperie du Marche ...

Creperie du Marche ...


Ham, Cheese, and Asparagus With Bechamel Sauce

Ham, Cheese, and Asparagus With Bechamel Sauce


A Little Cider, Also Popular in Quebec

A Little Cider, Also Popular in Quebec


Bodybag - Official Designer of Mass Murderers!!!

Bodybag - Official Designer of Mass Murderers!!!


Snack Time at La Premiere Moisson ...

Snack Time at La Premiere Moisson ...


Upscale Outremont

Upscale Outremont


Eglise St. Michel, I Think

Eglise St. Michel, I Think


Funky Mile End

Funky Mile End


Not a Castle, But a Firehall

Not a Castle, But a Firehall


More Funky Mile End

More Funky Mile End


Poutine Perfection at La Banquise ...

Poutine Perfection at La Banquise ...


Rue Prince Arthur, Back in the Latin Quarter

Rue Prince Arthur, Back in the Latin Quarter


A Montreal Institution - Schwartz's

A Montreal Institution - Schwartz's


The Famous Montreal Smoked Meat ...

The Famous Montreal Smoked Meat ...


Gotta Love the Side Dish Here ...

Gotta Love the Side Dish Here ...

Posted by vagabondvoyager 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

Blame it on the Rain

All the buzz and all the excitement that was missing from yesterday ... was out in full force today! From the metro ride down to Ile St. Helene and the walk on towards Circuit Gilles Villeneuve ... there was no doubting that it was race day, and that everybody was hyped up for the event. Perhaps even more exciting was the weather conditions - it was cloudy and drizzly, with more rain forecast for the race. Sebastian Vettel and Red Bull Racing have been absolutely dominant so far this season - so far, no one has consistently been able to challenge Vettel on the race track.

But wet conditions usually result in surprises during a race - cars going offline on the slippery track and allowing others to pass, extra pit changes, accidents, safety cars, variable weather conditions resulting in drivers being caught out on the wrong type of tire ... anything goes, making it extremely entertaining for the spectator. You never really know who is in the best position to win the race, as that can change in an instant. So perhaps finally, someone would break Vettel's dominance - all things being equal, that isn't likely to happen but with a bit of help from the weather, maybe it will. Or course, though the rain can be great for spectators, it can also be bad - especially when you're sitting in the stands to watch the race!

The first 20 odd laps were everything I had ever imagined an F1 race would be, perhaps even more so, despite starting under a safety car. As soon as the safety car pulled into the pit lanes, it was on - the action was incredible at the Casino hairpin as the race really got underway. +20 cars trying to cram through the turn in about 20 seconds ... it was crazy! Sensory overload, it was difficult to follow all the action - at times there were three cars nearly side by side, each struggling for grip and frantically trying to nudge their car just far enough ahead of the others to pull off the pass. As you focused on one group of cars, suddenly another car would jump into the fray, then another. During the initial few laps of actual racing, for every attempted pass you say, there were probably two that you missed as there was simply too much action to process. F1 racing at its best!

Lucky for us, there were a few safety cars in the initial phases of the race, allowing for a few mad dashes through the Casino hairpin, providing multiple moments of madness and excitement. But unfortunately, this wasn't to last as it started to absolutely pour on lap 24, red flagging the race. Sigh ... though we hoped the rain would cease and the race would soon re-start, that wasn't to be. A bit dejected, we finally left the race track and back to the B&B, to dry off and warm up. Though we did manage to watch the crazy finale to an unforgettable race, it wasn't quite like we expected - from the comfort of a warm sofa, and not in person seated in a grandstand :(

I can't say that we felt shortchanged by missing out on the majority of the race - Montreal's an amazing city, definitely worth visiting without having the excuse of something like the Canadian Grand Prix. I look at it this way - it was worth coming all this way just to see Montreal, and the race was a big bonus. Especially after getting to see Jenson Button storm all the way from 21st out of 24 cars and snatching the win away from Sebastian Vettel on the last lap - unforgettable!

Pre-Race Parade - All the Drivers, in Classic Cars

Pre-Race Parade - All the Drivers, in Classic Cars


$20 Cushion ...

$20 Cushion ...


Fanatic Ferrari Fans out in Full Force!!!

Fanatic Ferrari Fans out in Full Force!!!


Tons of History at Circuit Gilles Villeneuve

Tons of History at Circuit Gilles Villeneuve


Creative Beer Bong - Using the Horn!

Creative Beer Bong - Using the Horn!


Unsuccessfully Hiding from the Rain ...

Unsuccessfully Hiding from the Rain ...


Fans Leaving the Track in Droves ...

Fans Leaving the Track in Droves ...


$500 Seat to Watch the Canadian Grand Prix ...

$500 Seat to Watch the Canadian Grand Prix ...


The Sun Finally Came Out!!! ...

The Sun Finally Came Out!!! ...


Out in Mount Royal

Out in Mount Royal


The Tiniest Little Rona in the World!

The Tiniest Little Rona in the World!


St. Viateur Bagel ...

St. Viateur Bagel ...


St. Ambroise Beer ...

St. Ambroise Beer ...


The Milano ...

The Milano ...


Lemon Chicken ...

Lemon Chicken ...


Juliette et Chocolat ...

Juliette et Chocolat ...


Brownie w/ Raspberry and Balsamic Reduction ...

Brownie w/ Raspberry and Balsamic Reduction ...

Posted by vagabondvoyager 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

18,000 RPM

18,000 RPM - that's how fast F1 engines rev. They are LOUD, up to 140 dB in the cockpit!!! Eating breakfast this morning, we could hear the F1 cars doing practice runs, even though the B&B is a good 5 km from the track. It definitely cranked up the anticipation several levels, as if it wasn't already high enough! The only thing keeping me from immediately running out the door and heading to the track was the yummy breakfast from Marche St. Jacques, highlighted by some truly stellar bread.

Though busy, I expected a larger crowd at the metro station but it is only qualifying, after all - it'll probably be chaos on race day. The atmosphere wasn't quite like I had expected - definitely busy, but there wasn't the real buzz in the air that I hoped for. The support race immediately preceding qualifying involved Porsches - a far cry from the technology of modern F1 cars. The atmosphere improved greatly as the F1 cars hit the track - the sheer power and noise of the engines can only truly be appreciated in person. You can feel the engines reverberate as much as you can hear them ... even with ear plugs, your ears ring with the tone of the engines.

Qualifying itself was a bit of a dud - surprise, surprise, Sebastian Vettel qualified first yet again. Though Ferrari qualifying 2nd and 3rd was a bit unexpected given their struggles so far this year. But still ... ever since F1 went to the three-session knockout qualifying, it's been BORING. It makes you yearn for years past, when the cars would do flying lap after flying lap, keeping you on the edge of your seat for the entire 60-minute session as lap times continued to drop.

The classic duels between Michael Schumacher and Mika Hakkinen ... one would put in a hot lap capturing pole, only for the other to snatch it away by a tenth of a second. This would go on and on until the the session was closing, and the drivers were besting each other by only five hundredths of a second ... you'd never know was on pole until the very last lap of the session, put in just as time expired.

During the height of the epic battles between these two former World Champions, all the stops were pulled out - I remember one race where Ferrari sent Schumacher out immediately behind Rubens Barrichello, his teammate at the time. Ferrari's idea was to have Schumacher slipstream behind Barrichello as they crossed the start/finish line, in order to slingshot him into the start of a hot lap, giving him the speed boost provided by the drag reduction provided. Of course, this completely wasted a lap for Barrichello, but we all know he was always just Schumacher's bitch while at Ferrari, right?

Anyway ... you'd think that such a trick wouldn't offer much of an advantage over a single lap of qualifying, but there was one session where pole was won by just one thousandth of a second! Broadcasters offered up a graphic showing what a thousandth of a second would mean over the course of a single lap - had the two cars been racing side by side to the finish line, that tiny fraction of a second would have only been a matter of inches! A little slingshot like that could mean the difference between qualifying first or second, which could mean the difference between winning or losing the race, which could result in World Championships being won or lost ... once again, it was epic ...

Today's qualifying session had absolutely NONE of that excitement ... not that I've got anything against Vettel, it's just getting boring seeing him at the top of the timesheet all the time, especially since he was never seriously threatened by anyone else during the session. The outcome was never really in doubt; it was pretty obvious that it was Vettel's pole position to lose. Sigh ... hopefully there's more excitement at tomorrow's race! Montreal is renowned for its festival scene during the summer, and this weekend was crazy around the city - beyond the F1 race, there was Les Francofolies (a famous Francophone and world music festival), and Nuit Blanche sur Tableau Noir (a visual arts festival). The vibe around Montreal was incredible this weekend ... Crescent street was shut down to traffic for the entire weekend and was the centre of the city's F1 celebrations. But with the good comes the bad - F1 is a glamorous sport, and attracts the world's jet-set crowd. Crescent street and St. Catharines street - though fun for a bit, the scene got a bit too plastic tonight, which is to be expected from an event that attracts millionaires and billionaires from all over the globe.

Our evening wrapped up at the Beaver Club, and I know what you are all thinking - no, it isn't one of the strip clubs Montreal is famous for! It's actually a pretty renowned restaurant at the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth. Overall, the meal was good, but didn't quite live up to the billing, though it did do a good job of highlighting Quebec products and producers. But no matter how good the food may be there ... seriously, who the hell names a restaurant the Beaver Club, especially in Montreal??!?!?!

Hearty Breakfast Before F1 Qualifying ...

Hearty Breakfast Before F1 Qualifying ...


Lunch ...

Lunch ...


Lots of Tifosi in the Stands

Lots of Tifosi in the Stands


View from the Grandstand ...

View from the Grandstand ...


Forza Italia!!!

Forza Italia!!!


Napping at the Races

Napping at the Races


Backside of the Track ...

Backside of the Track ...


Garage Area for the Support Races

Garage Area for the Support Races


Fuel Bottles for the Support Racers

Fuel Bottles for the Support Racers


F1600 Car

F1600 Car

Posted by vagabondvoyager 17:00 Comments (0)

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